DENIM BACK TO THE FUTURE VINTAGE
A Parigi dal 25 al 26 maggio 2011 si svolgerà l’appuntamento con il jeanswear che riunisce tutti gli universi della filiera denim e presenta le novità dell’autunno/inverno 2011-2012. Il primo giorno della filiera Marithé & François Girbaud conduranno, insieme a esponenti di brand internazionali, il dibattito dal tema Future Vintage, una seria riflessione relativa allo sviluppo di iniziative creative e al contempo responsabili.
Da 40 anni la coppia stilistica sperimenta tecniche di lavaggio rivoluzionarie che ripercorrono la storia delle lavorazioni vintage sposando tecnologia e creatività per un approccio etico al mondo della moda.
Marithè e Francois Girbaud, consci delle conseguenza inquinanti dei processi industriali, da sempre hanno cercato di attirare l’attenzione sulle problematiche legate al risparmio energetico e alla sostenibilità sia attraverso le proprie campagne di comunicazione sia nell’ideazione di innovativi trattamenti come il WATTWASH™, che utilizza la luce e permette di risparmiare fino al 97,5% di acqua rispetto allo Stone Wash.
« Nous ne pouvons être des criminels… » dit Marithé !”
WHY ARE WE PART OF “FUTURE VINTAGE” ?
“At the end of the 80’s, they wanted me to use permanganates to burn jeans and in ’89, I saw the Berlin Wall fall, with hordes of communists who thought that jeans were supposed to have that shameful color. Intoxication guaranteed. It really shook us up and we reacted by working on shapes, sculpting the raw material. In the 70’s and 80’s, what did we know about the dangerous risks that we were causing for humanity ? We had invented industrialized stone washing, no one had done it before us. We had created a trade and an industry that polluted every river on the planet. Jeans represented freedom, liberty, so we followed socio-cultural trends to treat denim in every possible outrageous way. We were innocent, we didn’t know.
Then, in 1988, our main American partner was the V.F. Corp group. I said, “The Jean is DEAD, long life to Metamorphojean,” thinking that it would at most cause an ironic smile, but then I found they wanted me to apologize. I had offended the huge machine, I had overstepped the limits of the politically correct. I refused to do snow wash like everyone else. I felt that we had contributed in a huge error and I didn’t want to make jeans like that anymore. My refusal for huge financial deals was a rebellious act and it was perceived as such. Today, it is read as environmental awareness…The path to 21st century techniques opened to us and we began a long process of research and the first tests with and towards light.
Rebel, I am proud to be.
Rebel, take this gun.
It’s a question of survival. Water has to be saved for future generations.
Now we know it. We can rewrite the story and call it DENIM BACK TO THE FUTURE VINTAGE.
WHO ARE MARITHE AND FRANCOIS GIRBAUD ?
For 40 years, they untiringly seek out new cutting and assembly techniques, revolutionary treatments. Working together, these two designers have been able to marry technology and creativity. Marithe and Francois brought a new approach to fashion ; more popular and more industrial, starting with the work-garment. Year after year, they redesign and rethink the jean, inventing new industrial processes, technical designs in harmony with morphology and the movement of the body. It began in the 70’s by the industrialization of pre-washed jeans; it followed in 1972 with the “Stonewash” treatment, which revolutionized the denim world ; That continues with the famous “baggy” which made the world tour in the 80’s. They treat nowadays the denim by laser, a 97.5% WATERFREE treatment : WATTWASH™, and this treatment combines with the ozone comes to perfect this approach of an ethical jeans. Talent-spotters, they were visionaries and influence the market.